Yorkshire Dales - December 2005

Friday 9th - the start
Arrive at Northallerton and wait for 156 bus to take me to Leyburn for a weekend of walking. For some reason the number on the front of these buses doesn’t match those at the bus stop timetable and I have to settle for a 157. After changing at Bedale I arrive in Leyburn where there is a very tatty market going on - its now 1.30pm and make my way to the Black Swan hotel.

On arrival I am told that there is no reservation for Gwillym but there is a one night for a Mr Guilliam. I have to point out the spelling mistake and tell them its definitely for three nights. Then of course the room isn’t ready and can I come back at 3' o clock - leaving my suitcase there naturally. They will 'take it to my room'.

Leyburn is an average town nowhere near as pretty as some of the Dales ones and does lack character. The first pub of call is the Bolton Arms where I have a delicious Dales pie basically mince, mash and cheese. This is accompanied by a pint of Fosters..

Arrive back at three, suitcase still where I left it and have to drag it up the stairs, the girl first cant find the room and when she does she struggles to get the door open. An ominous feeling comes over me as I enter the room.

I have stayed in some hellholes in my time but......

• The 'ensuite' comprises of a dodgy sink in the corner.
• The television comes complete with a plug but there are no points in the room to plug it into.
• Wall paper is peeling off the walls.
• Above the bed is 'fitted' (I use the word loosely) cupboards that appear to be made of other bits of furniture.
• The light is hanging precariously from the ceiling
• There are brackets on the wall but no shelves and the room is bloody cold!!

An early night is in order

Saturday 10th

Go down for breakfast, the room is virtually empty. I sit down but am told that my table is in the corner!!!

Anyways up to Aysgarth via Wensley, West Witton and West Constable. At West Constable stop at the Fox and Hounds for lunch. Have a great suet pudding and chips - massive portions and friendly staff - must have been bussed in from London.

Go to Aysgarth up some particularly steep hills, retire to pub for some Fosters ignoring the "Take thy shoes off" notice and then head back to hotel. Weather drizzly but the views are fantastic.

Stop in at Bolton Arms for a quick pint, usual miserable staff. Buy Private eye and retire for the evening

Sunday 11th

Decide to walk to Bolton Abbey. Pleasant views but train is rather run down. Reminds me of 1970's vandalised BR train. Spot pub with a Sunday lunch sign and decide to take advantage. Usual Yorkshire hospitality "have you booked?" - "er, well no actually", "I'll just check to see if we have space". He disappears before I could point out the fact that if he hasn’t got room then he should not f***ing advertise lunches.

Anyway he comes back and says there is a table available. Despite the landlords lack of customer service skills I stay and order the roast beef. As usual the food is fantastic and generous...

Get the train back to Leyburn Pleasant views but train is

Monday 12th

Breakfast was absolutely disgusting!! Beats NYC Grandmas chicken hands down for the worst ever meal!! Really glad to pack my bags and depart. But its not over yet. As I say my goodbyes the manager asks if I could settle up. now, this is a bit of a shock as I thought I had paid in full by cheque some weeks before. He shows me the 'book' were written in red is "Gwillym - £20 deposit paid" - this leaves a balance of £40. mmmmm........... this is a tad suspicious as when I saw the book on Friday there was nothing written in there except "Guilliam". Luckily there is a cash point opposite the 'hotel' and I apologise and pay up......

As I have some time to kill I get a bus to Hawes and have a look around. For the first time I get a postbus back to Leyburn. This is a journey I will repeat as it goes all over the place including all the backwater villages.

Back at Leyburn I catch bus to Northallerton and train back to London.

As a postscript I discovered that I had paid the hotel and write a (restrained)letter to the hotel asking for return of money - which they send back...